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fetching & dismantling
sandblasting & evil rust
right "b" pillar
fixing right inner sill
basic body repair, por-15
frame removed, footwell repair
hole fixed, car flipped, etc.
sill stiffeners, rear bulkhead, etc.
various small parts
left sill, added stiffener, etc.
- lousy weather
trunk floor (reprise)
right floor, left sill, etc.
left floor, wheel well, etc.
right upper wishbone
floor done, car righted
rack, front frame, evil rust
left door cleaned & fitted
right door, right suspension
bonnet, part 1
bonnet, part 2
bonnet, part 3
bonnet, part 4
bonnet, part 5, etc.
bonnet, part 6
bonnet, outer sill, etc.
lots of stuff
left side, bonnet internals
frame, bonnet attached
engine stand, oil pan removal
pistons removed, sanding
sanding, final filling
color, frames, primer
brushed primer test
2nd coat primer
holiday greetings!
finish prep, detail on dent fix
spraying primer
winter chores 1. undercoat, plating prep
2. plating, spraying color
bonnet, plate prep, cylinder head
cylinder head paint, bushes
plating saga
front frame, suspension, part 1
front suspension, part 2
front suspension, part 3
priming and painting
bonnet, part 7
painting color!
boot lid, steering wheel
gas tank
winter chores
1. firewall sundry
2. front suspension
3. steering setup
4. master cylinders/pedals
5. the rest
data plate screed
winter to spring
1. irs rebuild
2. trunk floor, harness
3. data plate (again)
data plate, door, headlights
dash vinyl, crosshatch aluminum
windshield, right door
interior, "widget"
chrome parts!
door handle details
rolling chassis
molasses rust removal
electrical, part 1
bores, thrust washers
new engine!
head differences
block differences
compression ratio
engine in place!
alternator
catchup & photos
it runs!
setback and brakes
darned close & engine diffs
driven
top and seats
driving and little stuff
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This Weekend Marks the First Year
It's been a full year this weekend since Derek, Aaron, and I drove out to tidewater Virginia to pick up the old car. At that time I was
thinking that I'd be driving the car a year after picking it up. But experience has taught me otherwise. I think we have made good progress
nonetheless. It was my expectation that was out-of-line.
We're watching Hurricane Isabel with some dread this weekend. It could end up being another Fran, some say, or worse. I just hope that the
storm turns out to sea. There isn't much to do about it except stockpile some water and make sure the flashlight works.
Pistons Removed
I was thinking about a gradualist approach to remove the pistons, but I am thinking better of it now. We decided to remove the whole lot
of them all together, so that we can take a closer look at the crankshaft. I spoke with my dad on the telephone over the weekend about the
crankshaft. He tried replenishing bearings on an old engine once before, and they gave way shortly afterward. If the crankshaft is not
true if it has miniscule flatnesses especially the crankshaft eats up the new bearings in short order. So, I'm going to look
around for a machine shop that can check the crankshaft in all of its places and, if need be, turn and otherwise repair it.
As my dad said, now is the time to do it, when the engine is out and already apart. If the bearings fail and the crankshaft is the problem,
doing the work later will be even more frustrating.
The piston rings look quite good. The two at the top are supposed to have a taper that narrows at the bottom, and these seem to have that
shape still. I would have expected worn rings to be virtually square from wear. The lowest ring is actually composed of three parts: two
solid and very thin rings surrounding a chain-like spacer. This assembly is the so-called "oil ring" probably because it keeps most of
oil in the crankcase and not spilling into the firing chamber above the pistons.
I haven't looked everything up yet, but I'm thinking that the bearings that we took off the piston rods were the 0.010 inch oversize versions.
Not only do the markings suggest that, but that kind of wear would fit with the 0.030 inch oversize of the pistons. From what I can tell
that size bearing is the maximum as well.
Rear Body Shell Block-Sanded
I began block-sanding the body shell. It is a little tedious, but I am amazed at how something as simple as block-sanding can tease out
slight imperfections in the body shape. I've been marking them with masking tape as I go along. Many are slight dips or flatnesses in
inappropriate places, usually at a spot where we had to do a little repair or where panels meet. One area that appeared with the sanding
was in a place I wasn't expecting, just above the left rear wheel well on the rear quarter panel. I suspect that the car was bumped at some
time or another and very lightly dented. We probably removed a smattering of Bondo when we stripped the paint and didn't see (or feel)
the flatness.
I was hoping to fire up the air compressor and let Aaron have a go at applying some primer, but I think now that block sanding the remainder
of the body shell and making some final repairs would be a better idea. Then we can take on the entire body shell in one day, or at least the
top portion. We are going to use some POR-15 "Tie-Coat Primer" which is formulated to bond to cured POR-15. We might not have needed it, actually,
since the block-sanding is making the surface rough enough for regular primer to bond to. I already have the Tie-Coat Primer, at any rate.
I'll post pictures of the marked up car later on. Block-sanding is really important, but it's easy to overlook because spraying primer is
a heck of a lot more fun!
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